The previous post was uploaded on Sunday at about 10:00 am Athens time. It was the morning of the major strike. Who would have known that there was more to come below our balcony. By about 12:30, loud music started and people started to gather. Eventually, the street and side street were closed to traffic. News camera people arrived and were mostly taking background video. I saw one woman being interviewed and a reporter positioned in front of the crowd, and speaking into his microphone.
As people began to stretch banners across the street, it became apparent that I was watching the start of another march. Someone blew a whistle several times and then the music stopped and speeches started. Unfortunately, it was Greek to us and the meaning of the words were lost to us. The emotion and passion came through clearly.
The short video below shows the actual mood of the crowd.
The protesters marched (actually walked would be a better descriptor) and soon our street was empty and traffic was allowed to pass. At about 2 pm we headed for the Acropolis. Amid the massive strike, we were somewhat surprised to learn the Acropolis was open to tourists. There was no charge for kids, but adults were 2o Euros each.
U.S. Embassy Athens Security Message for U.S. Citizens: Demonstrations and strikes May 6, 2016 U.S. Embassy Athens informs U.S. citizens that the following demonstrations and strikes are going to take place today, Friday, May 6, tomorrow Saturday May 7 and on Sunday, May 8.
The headlines read, “Strike Paralyzes Athens.” Fortunately our apartment is in the heart of Athens and we did not need to use buses or the subway. Thus, we were able to walk to the Temple of Zeus, the Arch of Hadrian, and the Acropolis. Our first stop was the Temple of Zeus. Surprise, gates locked and no one in the ticket booth. Apparently, civil servants were out on strike too.
Since the Temple of Zeus was closed we headed toward Plaka. On the way, we came across the Arch of Hadrian. Similar to Temples of Zeus, there are many Arches of Hadrian across the Roman world.
Below is a picture of our apartment, we are on the fifth floor (sixth floor-the we count in the US). Our balcony is the second from the top. To the right is a pedestrian walkway that bisects our street.
On Sunday morning we heard noise coming from our balcony doors. It sounded like a matching band. All five us went to the balcony and looked in the direction of the beating drums. There was no traffic on the street, and the police had blocked a side street, so no cars could enter our street. We did not have to wait long till the demonstrators arrived complete with a band leading the march.
The following warning was at the US Embassy,
“Even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly escalate into violence. You should avoid areas of demonstrations and exercise caution if in the vicinity of any large gatherings, protests, or demonstrations.”
What we saw was extremely peaceful. If you looked at the video on a large screen, you see demonstrators nonchalantly talking to each other, as well as mothers and a few children. It seemed more like a thanksgiving parade than an angry protest march.
It started out a cool crisp morning with scattered cloud cover. I took a fifteen minute walk to a local mini-mart. We have raved about the quality of the fruit and vegetables. Tomatoes have been plentiful, but the flavor and juiciness has been somewhere between a Florida tomato and an Indiana homegrown. The tomatoes from the mini-mart would compete favorably with the those from the Bloomington Farmers’ Market in July.
When we arrived yesterday, we were told that few people actually come to the area to ancient Sparta. Rather the tourists come to see Myntras. About the time the kids starting coming down for breakfast, we had loud thunder and a downpour that last 20 minutes or so. We almost cancelled the trip to Myntras. An hour or so later the sun came out and we opted to chance the rain. We got caught in drizzling rain, but not enough significant.
“The Castle Town of Mystras was very strong in the Byzantine times and actually in the last decades of the Byzantine period, this was the second most important town after Constantinople. On top of the castle hill, there was the Palace of the Despots.” Source: www.greeka.com
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Loutraki and were a bit sad to depart. Our next place to stay was near Sparta. Although Olympia was a bit out of our way, we did not share the map with the kids.
Unfortunately we had to rush through Olympia. We left Loutraki an hour later than the plan, and I had thought it would be about an hour from Olympia to Sparta. It was over two hours. Much to my dismay we missed the theater at Olympia. It was not in the same location as the stadium and temples. Similar to Argos we would have had to drive to a separate location to find the theater. We left sooner than we wanted and headed to our next apartment outside of Sparta. We arrived 45 minutes late, but fortunately the woman stayed to meet us and show us the mini villa.
When we awoke Easter morning, our neighbors were preparing their grills. A Weber grill would not cut it in Greece. Their grills are about five and a half feet long by two feet wide and include a motorized rotisserie. They use wood rather than briquettes. The Greek Easter is like Christmas in the United States. See the previous post. Easter is an important holiday. The kids are off school the week before Easter and the week after. When I saw the grills I thought to myself, it would be great if they let us try a piece of lamb.
About 10 in the morning, Marcia said hello to neighbor to the right. Marcia does not know a stranger. Soon I joined the discussion and after a few minutes, the neighbor, Mike, mentioned he would bring us a plate of lamb. Marcia thought he said he would have us over to eat. Marcia sliced oranges and cake to take over to them. Later, our neighbor brought us a large plate of lamb and homemade tzatziki sauce. After we ate some of it, Marcia decided to go ahead and drop off what we had planned to bring; a bottle of wine, cut oranges, and sliced pieces of cake. As we approached, we were immediately welcomed to the celebration.
We met Mike’s wife, Desi, and her parents, and grandparents. We were introduced to Desi’s younger sister and brother. One week ago Desi gave birth to their first child, a daughter. We interacted with the grandparents with the assistance of Mike and Desi who were great translators. To say we felt welcome would be an understatement. Although we had just eaten, they insisted on filling a plate for us. They gave us two glasses of sweet wine that reminded me of Manischewitz. The lamb had the flavor of 6 or 7 hours of wood smoked cooking. They loaded the plate for Marcia so I said we would share. The had also cooked Greek sausage on the grill. I had seen in the butcher’s case and had been tempted to buy it, but I wasn’t sure how to order just one. Since the opportunity presented itself, I asked for a piece of the sausage. It was longer than a hot dog and about the same thickness. It was good but I was glad I did not order it at the butcher and end up with a kilo of it.
The interaction reminded me of an American Thanksgiving dinner, but without a football game on the television. It was just the family smiling and having a good time. Mike is a sea captain who is responsible for one of the Greek ferries. He is a super nice guy and has a charming wife, who is an apprentice sea captain. They told us that on Easter Sunday everyone eats the big meal and then takes a nap. Desi’s parents and grandparents retired to the house and Desi, Mike, Marcia and I continued to talk. Mike talked about how challenging it is to bring a ferry into a harbor when the winds were high and there was little room for a error. He mentioned that every moment you have to think about your options and at critical times there is no room for mistakes.
Since others we meet during our travels often asked about the upcoming US election, I felt comfortable to bring up the question that some many had asked, Donald Trump. Mike explained that five or six years ago the liberals were elected in Greece with the same sort of bravado talk. Lots of big talk and as the Greeks have learned, it turned to be a disaster in that nothing changed. On May 3, it will be interesting how the citizens of our great state of Indiana vote.
On our short walk back to our house, the neighbors across the way were still grilling. Marcia knew I did not have any pictures of lamb being grilled. Marcia asked if we could take a picture. I went inside and got the camera.
Marshall was the name of the company that our neighbor worked for. Since we arrived near the moment that the meal was ready, we were encouraged to join them upstairs in the garden area.
The manager of the house we rented called this morning and warned us that there will be fireworks at midnight and not to be concerned. She mentioned that people would gather before midnight by the church and they will parade with candles. We stayed up and headed to the same church that Sarah and I had seen the start of the procession the night before. The five of us heard a portion of the mass from a distance. We had arrived a bit late so we only heard maybe 10 minutes of the mass. It was OK, because it was in Greek. Unlike French or Italian, a knowledge of Spanish does help. Since we had no clue as to the message, we weren’t disappointed that we arrived late. At midnight the mass ended and the bells started ringing, roman candles were lit by a woman near us and and fireworks followed. What follows is a 15 sec video that captures the bells and noise from the fireworks. Notice the people with candles.
At midnight, a priest appears holding a lighted candle taper reciting the phrase “Avto to Fos”, which means “This is the light.” His candle, dubbed “the Holy candle”, is used to light several of the onlookers’ candles, which in turn then light their neighbour’s candles. This continues until the entire square is lit with flickering candle light. The lighting of the candles is said to be the most significant moment of the entire year.
The resurrection is proclaimed at exactly midnight, and is celebrated with drums, fireworks, and church bells. Fireworks light up the sky in a majestic display. The crowd offers the salutation “Christós Anésti” (Christ has risen) to each other, which is responded to with the phrase “Alithós Anésti” (He has truly risen). They then dissipate; returning to their homes to the previously laid festive tables and break their fast with the traditional soup, maghiritsa. Before entering their homes, they make the symbol of a cross in the air with the smoke of the candle above the door. Devout followers are said to light an oil candle inside the home beside their icon-candle and keep this light burning throughout the year. It is said that if you can make it home without your candle going out, you will have a good year.
As we returned to the house our neighbors returned in their two cars with their candles light. We wish them a good year!